In Khartoum, 26 - 31 January

Khartoum, Friday, 26 January 2007
Have arrived Acropole Hotel. Flight through Amman, but alas, we couldn’t get out. Feeling snappish after long flights and delays getting through customs at the airport. Lovely room with 3 beds and sink, WC/shower just down the hall. Plans to go out on the town this evening.
I should sleep, but I suspect I’ve hit the no-sleep point. Khartoum, at least the brief view from the airport to the hotel seems slightly more modern that Cairo in layout. I hadn’t realized how enormous the city and suburbs are until we flew over.
Khartoum, Saturday, 27 January
Took Acropole quickie tour yesterday. The National Museum is dark and rather empty, but we didn’t have much of a chance to look around. The Ethnography Museum is small but pretty cool. Got some great photos of modern pottery. Supposed to go back to National Museum today for meet and greet, etc.

I’m fascinated by the women’s clothing here. All very put together, both the more sort of pan-Islamic style tunic and skirt with ordinary headscarf and the more traditional Sudanese thob – something like a sari, fully enveloping and usually in bright gauzy fabrics.
Khartoum, Sunday, 28 January
Returned to National Museum yesterday, wandered around the reconstructed temples, which are amazing. T rescued a sparrow that had run into a window. Helped out by a lovely lady inspector, Amal. Walked back to the Acropole without G and B. Long, hot walk despite B’s assurances that it was a short trip. Looked over satellite photos after lunch, then did 1st shopping trip with T, G, and B.

Felt poorly last night and passed on dinner but forced myself to shower. Oddly, the tap was electrified. Very odd feeling brushing against it accidentally while showering.
Finished up looking over and marking satellite photos this morning with most of the rest of the team. I expect there will be another shopping expedition this evening. Things seem to be more expensive here than I expected based on my experience in Egypt.
Khartoum, Monday, 29 January
Problems with the site at Shiri Island, apparently. The Manasir and the governor at Abu Hamed are in negotiations at the moment, so it’s unclear if we can work on Shiri, which is in Manasir territory. We do have backup plans if necessary, but will not be able to leave by tomorrow as planned.
Debate with one member of the team over toilet paper – specifically how much we should purchase to have with us. As I commented to G, “Fine, we can get not that much, but if we run out, I’m stealing his clothes and using them.”
Khartoum, Tuesday, 30 January
Yesterday’s shopping something of a trial, but we got it done.
We’ve found out we can’t work on Shiri. Instead, we’re taking on a probable Kerma-period settlement in the Polish concession in the 4th Cataract area closer to Karima and the dam. We leave tomorrow. Have finally met the mysterious “Solar Man” – purveyor of solar power equipment, who does in fact have a real name (which I have forgotten). I was rather upset to discover that he does not in fact have a cape or any indication of super-powers.
T and I went out on our own today to the Suq al-Arabi to gather more supplies and did quite well I think. It helps that we only needed 3 meters of wire mesh (as I can only count to 3 in Arabic).
Omdurman Suq yesterday was interesting. T was offered a horrific assemblage of tourist kitsch, including 2 whips (shades of Indiana Jones), a horrible crocodile head knife-sheaf thingie, and I was offered a purse that would double as a green plaid fez. I was also offered a bra. Full marks for effort there, considering that my sports bra and haircut make me look like a young boy (and the bra was for a generous figure).
T twisted his ankle yesterday on the way back from the Suq al-Arabi. Got it iced and wrapped so it should be fine. He’s doing wonderfully adjusting here – chatting with people, learning as much Arabic as possible.
Khartoum, Wednesday, 31 January
It’s just past 12:30 PM and we’re still waiting to leave. Dinner last night with the Polish team who so kindly granted us part of their concession. Dinner wasn’t bad, very spicy, but I was too paranoid of illness just before a long car-trip to eat much. Bit of an adventure on the way back to the hotel. The mini-bus taxi we were in broke down on the Omdurman Bridge. Most of us piled out and made our way along the edge to the end of the bridge, dodging traffic and hoping no one plowed into the stalled mini-bus. G stayed to steer the mini-bus while the driver pushed. The driver laughingly asked him if he wanted to drive the rest of the way to the hotel. Khartoum traffic being what it is, I think I’d have to be drugged to the gills to try such a thing. We decided to walk a few blocks, but as some people weren’t wearing walking shoes (having not expected to have to walk far) we wound up hailing another mini-bus with a pimpin’ blacklight dome lamp. We’re all getting restless and ready to leave Khartoum.
6:50 PM
Stopped after about 3 hours on the road at Tam Tam station for tea. Used to be a major stop for smugglers and looks it. Did not avail myself of the “facilities” (as these are “Over yonder behind the building in the desert”) as I’m not entirely certain I can manage without peeing on myself. I’m not sure how I’ve managed it, but I’ve never had to pop a squat outdoors before in my life. Really. No idea how I’ve avoided that considering what I get up to on a regular basis, but there you have it.